Lovely. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. The colour is particularly appealing too. Meaning it might never be available. Thanks Simon! Then begin with just a little bit of black polish, perhaps around the toe or heel. READ!!!! Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. one mor question. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? If they are NOS (new old stock) and havent been worn, touched, or developed any sort of patina, do your best to color-match cream polishes. I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. If they can be saved, you should do so if you like them. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? 278 Likes, 3 Comments - (@matthews.grail) on Instagram: " Blog Alden Brown Alpain Grain Utip(AOC-86) & Alden #8 Shell Cordovan Utip" I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Simon, curious to know if you have any thoughts on the last post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers. So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Is this ill advised for a first loafer? Those who dont which includes most of the big shoe brands when it comes to offering Horween Shell Cordovan shoes, like Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, Carmina etc treats the cordovan hides themselves to make it withstand moisture and dirt better. Thank you! And does it work with calf too, or only cordovan? Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. Once the tanning process is complete, the hides still require another 4 months of work before they become finished leather. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). Designed by Out of the Sandbox. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? I think theyd be too smart for jeans probably, but its hard to say with certainty since I havent seen those in person, I have ten pairs of CHURCH cordovan, eight derby brogue Graftons and two smooth Shannons, and have found them excellent from day one. Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. Hot spoon and burn it back as I did with army boots decades ago? Was I drowning in cash, my next pair would be more adventurous. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. I like the style generally (sort of a dressed-up Doc Martin for the urban professional), and I assume you wear them with denim, which is a nice look (although I think the images above are actually from an article you did on similar Kaan shoes, correct?). Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Whats good to know is that the cordovan that is delivered from Horween with its natural surface, is very sensitive to water, and easily gets stained and bad looking. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? You use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color loss from fading over time. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. Yes, I know what you mean. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Absolutely! They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. Most Eye-Catching Cordovan: Heinrich Dinkelacker. Its a nice shoe, but perhaps a little clompy for my style I prefer a split-toe myself. The only thing that comes close is suede, and that is never quite as smart. Bravo. Have a look at the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example. Shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. Shell cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. For your first pair, you might want to go with a classic, versatile style. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. It states Cordovan on the insole. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). Cordovan is more durable. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. Hi Simon, I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) Dear Simon, I highly recommend the Alden restoration service. And what color socks would you wear? Hmm. Posted by LS. Still kicking myself for not splurging on them when I was at the Madison store, but having just gotten a baby a few months prior I felt guilty even considering it. Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. And it can look great! All things being equal/subjective; would I look nicer in Shell Cordovan; or a regular leather dress boot? Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Hi Simon, do you think Aldens moc toe in Barrie last would be too casual and wide for mid-grey flannel trousers with 18.5cm leg openings? Hi Jesper, I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. What do you think? Id find it far too scratchy against the skin with anything less underneath anyway. Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. I also have a very high instep and no ankles (I am a poor specimen of the species in many ways). Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. Do you mind telling if you have same size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and are they the same width? Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. And ideally a darker no8 shade, but not as big a factor. As Nick Horween told us. Simon, I have approx. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. how would you compare your EG (pictured above), the classic Alden tassel loafer on the Aberdeen last and the full strap in terms of the vamp? I dont think they stock color #8, but usually have whisky and dark brown, which is a little different from Aldens Cigar brown. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. I guess it might be your feet, but then again I havent worn mine for 12 years either. There are some comments above about those, as well as about the jeans. Then some others depending on shades. Clutch Cafe could probably order them for you. On very large or very tall men, there might be issues. Hi Simon, But I doubt Id want these any wider. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. How do you like to wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers? I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. When looking at potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options? Hi Simon, nice to see you moving into this area of things, been a reader for about 8 years now and this is my first time commenting I think. But the sole is thicker too. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Its certainly thicker than calf. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. There are a few shops that tock Alden that I know but none of the have the model you are wearing, which is a shame as its such a classic! I always have to in US sizes. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. Im in an Alden group on FB with them and their customer service seems great though Ive yet to buy from them. Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. I would say in terms of versatility. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. The production of Horween's Genuine Shell . Thank you. Thank you! Who should do this instead of me next time? But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? What do I regret? which affects the value point. Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. Is Alden your preferred brand? Great read and nice pictures as always. However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. Colour 8 does. Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. My interest in good shoes started when I bought some Santoni black cordovan chukka boots in an outlet shop in Kitzbuhel for about a hundred quid. Your first pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. great post, as we are used to it! Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for any casual application. Alden states that they use oak leather soles (likely meaning oak bark-tanned). Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. 1. It's almost impossible for me to overstate how unimpressed you will be. Thanks in advance. Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity. P.S. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Your email address will not be published. Certainly compared to Europe as a whole. I am considering buying a pair of cordovan loafer, but I am not sure, which to go for. I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. Am I missing something? Its generally not possible to do much. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. What is the least formal outfit someone can wear with a pair of cordovan split toe chukka boots? (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. Can you apply normal cream (for calf leather)? Then there is the leather sole. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. Do you have experience on this or advice for me. Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. Above all, each piece is different. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? Thanks Quentin. Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. Or did you size down 1/2 on the barrie? Hi Simon great post. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. Thoughts on grained cordovan? I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. How much did they stretch out if you have? Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. Hi Simon, Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued 9E in the Barrie. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. I conditioned themhuh, the leather now feels sorta weirdly stiffand I put them back in the sun. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all.
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